I've been reading
The Nameless Sword Saga: The Protectors by Traveling East for a while now, and it's one of the most epically wonderful pieces I've read.
http://www.fanfiction.net/s/3436329/1/
The plot is fabulous, and there's lots of humor and wit mixed in with the action and drama. All the characters are so wonderfully portrayed, and relationships develop slowly and believably, making it easy to see the bonds between everyone forming and strengthening as the story goes on.
I'm reccing this even though (as far as I know, I'm at around chapter 40) Sesshoumaru and Kagome are not yet in a romantic relationship. I believe that the story is leaning in that direction, and that the close relationship that they are forming is Dokuga-worthy.